Bhutan's Druk Path Trek. Day 5.

It is a strange thing for us occasional trekkers,we wait for months for the trek and then once it starts we want it to end as soon as possible.The physical demands starts taking its toll from the first day itself. But then again this is what we enjoy. The whole thrill of trekking lies in that physical endurance that one goes through.It is a queer thing to explain.We are in pain and at the same time we enjoy every bit of it.

Day 5 bought us to the last day of our trek and we were both relieved and a bit sad.Relieved because we could sleep on a smooth mattress that night and we wouldn't have to use the toilet tent again.Sad because we were going to miss the wonderful mountain scenery and the adrenaline.

We had a wonderful night's sleep and were feeling mighty refreshed. The first thing that Ishita Didi asked us in the bright morning was if we felt any tremors the night before. None of us felt anything and we said she must have imagined it.Later when we reached Thimphu I checked it out in an internet cafe and found that there was an earthquake in Myanmar the previous night.But in our campsite there were no news of anything happening nearby or from the monks there.So we knew nothing of the earthquake. After a leisurely breakfast we started off from the campsite passing through the Monastery complex.We bid goodbye to a few monks who were out taking a stroll in the morning sun.

There was nothing much during our walk down to the end of the trail. We walked past a couple of prayer wheels and a few small structures.Nothing remarkable. We reached the end point in a couple hours. The trek trail makes it through the forest to this point and from here there is a tar road. Our coaster was waiting for us.We boarded it and we couldnt wait to go to our hotel and take a rejuvenating hot water bath.A half an hour drive bought us to our hotel.There ended our Druk Path Trek. 

In the evening we went out for a stroll in the city streets. The famous traffic booth of Thimphu was nearby our hotel and sure enough there was not much traffic in the streets.The skies above were overcast and now and then it drizzled for a bit.Enjoying this cool but comfortable weather we walked all the way to the Tashicho Dzong. This Dzong opens for visitors only in the evening at 5pm and closes at 6pm. A dzong is divided into two parts.One is for administrative purpose and the other part is for the religious purpose. We strolled inside the vast courtyard for an hour and finally at 6pm made our way back to the area near our hotel.After a few random visits to shops and cafes we went in for the night at around 10pm. The next day we departed for India in the morning. We reached New Jalpaiguri by evening. And our thrilling Druk Path trek trip was over.

Bhutan's Druk Path Trek. Day 4.

Day four was the day we were going to reach our highest point of the trek.We were naturally excited.The day had started off with the cool mountain air waking me up as Ravi has left the flap open when he went out of the tent.As I made my way out I could see that the surrounding mountain tops were all covered up with snow.The snow fall which had started the day before must have continued in the night.The view was breathtaking.The mountain tops shone in the bright sunlight and everything wore a fresh look.

 After breakfast we started off on our trail.We walked past the lake to our left and continued straight ahead.The terrain was rocky with bushes of a muddy green colour here and there spread over the area.To be honest this was a bit dull.As we continued waking we came across a stream which was completely frozen.In some areas I could see that only the top layer was frozen making for a transparent layer.Underneath it crystal clear water flowed gently.We walked along this stream,over the frozen waters playfully breaking the ice here and there with our sticks.At one point we branched off from the stream and continued on the trail.After an hour of walking,we reached a point which provided a magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.We were on top of a hill ahead of which lay a huge valley.Directly opposite was the face of another hill.We stopped here, had some snacks and took a lot of pics.The altitude at this point was 4000MSL.

We then marched off.We kept walking and sometime later far ahead we could spot a lake nestled in the middle of a mountain.It was still far away.The landscape was neither still the same dullish green with rocks everywhere.Not particularly enticing. This stretch reminded me of the movie 'Wild' where Reese Witherspoon treks along the Pacific Crest Trail.We approached the lake after some half an hour after the first sighting.There was a broken down dwelling made up of stones nearby where abhishek, Satya and Ravi settled down. Ishita didi went downwards towards the lake to have a closer look and to take some pics.After that short break we again resumed our walk.The trail now traversed through a completely rocky terrain.There were sections of stone walls with crumbling rocks clinging to the sides and some heaps of smaller stones accumulated at the bottom.And finally as we walked over a final stretch of uphill ascent we arrived at the highest point of our trek. My watch showed the altitude to be 4100MSL. We stopped here and took some pics.

Then we started our downhill walk.Again we walked past some spectacular cliffs.An hour's walk through this magnificent terrain bought us finally to the last prayer wheel on this trek.From here we could spot the city of Thimphu down below.We stopped for some much needed rest and took a lot of pics here. We wanted to spend some more time here but Sangayji insisted we move ahead.
From here it is a complete downhill walk.We walked past a quaint building built at the edge of a hill.I don't what it was but its location was excellent.As we trudged downhill far ahead I could see we were approaching a Monastery complex.There was a big building to the far left and a group of much smaller buildings to the right.There was a ground too in the middle.To the far right were set up a group of tents which we correctly assumed to be our campsite.This place was called Phajoding.It was at an altitude of 3500MSL.
 
As we neared the monastery complex we could see some children playing football.They were all wearing the bright red monk robes. The sight of those cute kids in their red robes running around was a joy to watch. Amit threw away his bag and rushed to join the kids.He asked them if he can play to which the kids cheerfully nodded and amit joined in. Amit was wearing a sleeveless tshirt exposing the tattoo he had on his arm.This proved to be a wonder for the kids who stopped their game and flocked around him to look at the tattoo.After this brief distraction the game resumed.I clicked a few pics and mulled about joining the game myself. Ravi meanwhile caught up with me and suggested we both join too. So throwing the bag and the camera we ran in on the ground. With our newly formed friends from our support team, lama and dorji joining in too, we had a good number now.We played for some time enjoying the game.Sometime later Abhishek too joined in. Satya couldn't because he was still feeling a bit tired and sick so he went directly to his tent and took some rest. Meanwhile I was breathless with all the running and called it quits. Didi all this while was taking pics.After the game finished we all took some group pics with the kids.

We then walked towards our campsite. This was a piece of land allotted for the trekkers to set up their tents here. The biggest relief was the toilets set up there. In the night after dinner I walked to  nearby shelter to take a look at the city Thimphu glowing with lights. I took a few pics but none were any good. Lama was there too taking in the views and we had a lengthy conversation about Bhutan and its people.It was wonderful talking to him. Suddenly it started drizzling.I did not want to get stuck there while it rained so bidding goodbye to lama I ran back to my tent and tucked in for the night.Thus ended a wonderful day.


Quick Facts

Starting Point- Jana Tsho (3830 MSL) 

Highest Point - 4100MSL
End Point - Phajoding (3500 MSL)
Start time - 0815 Hrs

Highest Point time - 1300 Hrs

End Time- 1600 Hrs

Other Days Posts-
Prologue
Hike to Taktsang Monastery
Day 1
Day 2Day 3

Bhutan's Druk Path Trek. Day 3.

After a refreshing night's sleep,our second in the wilderness,I woke up to bright sunshine beating down on our tent.With the last day's experience I did not bother to try to view the sunrise.Instead I woke up leisurely and took a stroll around the campsite.The ground was damp with dew and it was still a bit cold even with the sunshine.The area nearby was a mess with the horse droppings.Gingerly avoiding these droppings I made my way around and took a complete circular stroll. The weather was still hazy denying us,for the third day,any views of the snow capped mountains in the distance.

After a leisurely breakfast we started off on our trail. We set off exactly in the opposite direction of where we came from the day before.Our trail today took us through another rhododendron filled section of the forest. The flowers shone bright red against the green of the other trees.Had I had a better camera than my Panasonic Lumix I would have been able to capture much better pictures of these beautiful flowers.

Sangayji having some fun while Durgaji and Satya look on.

We had started off at 3610 MSL at 0740 Hrs in the morning and our goal was to reach Jana Tsho which was at 3830 MSL. There are multiple ways to reach this campsite and taking stock of our group Sangayji decided to take the shortest one. This was because satya was feeling sick.He had headache and a slight fever. It looked like he did not acclimatize properly as usually he doesn't get sick easily.Also Ishita didi's stomach travails did not subside completely. So it was decided to take the shortest and the most easy route to Jana Tsho.The one thing we missed is a lake that lies on the long route. We weren't disappointed though instead we were glad of the less distance to cover.

The terrain initially was similar to the previous days.Green forests for most of the time.Midway into the day's trek we came across a stream.The sound of the gushing water reached us much before we even had a glimpse of the waters.We walked along the stream for sometime and then came across a small bridge over it.Here we stopped for a while to take much needed rest and shoot some pics as well.We resumed our walk and 30 mins later had a small snack break under a cool shade.After that break the landscape seemed to be changing as we neared our destination.From the green belt in the initial part we marched into a rocky and barren landscape.We were now on the top of a hill and we could see layers of hills in all directions surrounding us.We walked over this desolate landscape for over an hour to finally reach our campsite at 3830 MSL at 1145 Hrs.

This campsite nearby the lake Jana Tsho was the best of all the campsites this trek has to offer. Our tents were set up near the lake which was nestled cozily along the foot of a hill.There was the lake and the hill behind it on one side.On the opposite side there was a gradual drop into the valley.The other two sides had our trail,passing through the campsite.Far away we could see the mountains but again no sights of any big peaks.

As soon as we reached we sat down on the warm grass to give our tired legs some rest as we took in the wonderful atmosphere.Our support team served us lunch there itself.It was on one of the most scenic and memorable lunches I ever had next only to the apple I ate near the Roopkund lake the year before.After lunch we chose our tents and tucked inside the sleeping bags for a quick nap. Our brief reverie was broken by a gentle patter of rain drops on our tent roof.We rushed outside to have a look. Sangayji was rushing around gathering some branches of the nearby bushes.We asked him what he was upto.To which he replied that he was going to build a fire and drive those rain clouds away.I was incredulous. Ravi said that what sangayji was doing was indeed correct.Technically it could be done but the success probability was very less. Anyway we watched him do it and to me it didn't seem to make any difference. Later with some more dry branches he built a small bon fire and we all gathered around its warmth. A little later it started raining again.This time it was a mix of rain and snow. We ran back to our tents and settled down inside the warm sleeping bag.I flipped open my tent covers now and then to just look at the snow.It was all very beautiful. Late evening we had our dinner early and slept after idle chatter late into the night..

Quick Facts
Starting Point- Jangchulakha (3610MSL)
End Point - Jana Tsho (3830 MSL)

Other Days Posts-
Prologue
Hike to Taktsang Monastery
Day 1
Day 2

Bhutan's Druk Path Trek. Day 2

After an uneasy night's sleep in the sleeping bag I woke up some time in the night.It was still dark outside and my watch told me it was still 5 am. I wanted to catch the sunrise so I left my cozy sleeping bag rather reluctantly and ventured outside into the chilly morning air.A cold wind was blowing immediately sending a shudder through my body. I looked around the campsite taking in the night time view.Unlike Roopkund (comparisons were inevitable no matter how much I resisted) where the snow capped mountains faraway always gave the campsites a heavenly atmosphere,here in these campsites there wasn't much to look out for in the night. I strolled around the campsite a bit and waited for the sunrise. The sunrise when it did come was a disappointment.The sun rose up quickly and turned the night sky first into a bloody orange colour and then into a sparkling blue. The day was clear and the weather good. But not good enough to give us any views of the peaks that lay around us.

Breakfast

Amidst this warm morning we had our breakfast of porridge,sandwich,boiled eggs and bananas. Durgaji asked how we were holding up. Ishita Didi was feeling a bit sick and she did not have much for breakfast. We suspected the food she had in our hike to Taktsang for her upset stomach.Then Satya was feeling a bit uneasy. We put this to the altitude. He was having problems getting acclimated. The rest of us were in good health. Abhishek was in high spirits, cracking jokes. Surpassing my expectations ravi was in excellent condition showing no signs of any fatigue or health issue. Then Amit too was at completely at ease. As for myself barring a couple of hours of headache the day before I was good.

 After that breakfast we started off for the days trek.The target for the day was to reach a campsite known as Jangchulakha at 3385MSL.

Rhododendron Flowers

We retraced our steps to the monastery we took the day before and walked past it to catch a trail.This trail passed through a thick forest.We walked through this for some time to emerge into an area where the rhododendron flowers were in full bloom.The flowers shone bright blood red against the dull background of brown and black. Durgaji plucked one and casually put in his mouth.He was munching on it as I looked on with amusement.He urged us to try one. Barring Amit and myself none of the others even showed any interest. I looked around a bit and plucked the one which looked a bit fresh.A bit hesitantly I put it in my mouth. It tasted a bit sour. I did not take another one and joined the others.

Right out from this rhododendron flower we walked into a landscape filled with thin tall trees protruding into the clear sky. They were devoid of any branches and leaves. They carried with them a most desolate and dry feeling.A short walk among them later we were back in the forest cover.

At one section we emerged from the thick forest cover into an opening by the side of a hill.Here the trail clung to the edge of the hill and the views from this point were spectacular.Layers of hills carpeted with the dark green foliage stretched till the horizon. This was a short section and once again we were enveloped by the trees all around.

We halted for lunch at 12 noon.Again the food was terrible. I almost choked on those thick rotis.
After lunch we started off again.An hour later I could spot our campsite far away placed in the middle of a clearing. There were not many trees around.It looked a bit like a meadow but with a smattering of bushes here and there. Repeating the previous day's routine we flung our bags on the sheet and laid down for a bit of a rest.

Satya taking a little break

After sometime we got up and chose our tents. It was still 2 in the afternoon and we had a lot of time on our hands. Some of us slept while others took strolls around the campsite. In the evening it started drizzling so most of the time was spent inside the tents huddled together chatting.Rains in the mountains is a wonderful thing.The spatter of the raindrops on the tent covers with the dark clouds gliding over the hills outside creates a hypnotic atmosphere.After a quick dinner we retired to our tents and were fast asleep in a couple of hours.

First view of our campsite

One of our tents

Quick Facts
Starting Point- Near Jele Dzong (3360MSL)
End Point - Jangchulakha (3610MSL)

Other Days Posts-
Prologue
Hike to Taktsang Monastery
Day 1

Bhutan's Druk Path Trek. Day 1

After that grueling hike to Tiger's Nest the day before we were 'warmed up' for the first day of our Druk Path Trek. 'Druk' means 'Dragon' in Tzongkha,the most spoken Bhutanese language. Druk Path is one of the most popular treks of the country as it is short and offers wonderful views. As I mentioned in my Prologue post, I chose Bhutan and the Druk path trek after a lot of research. The definite highlights of the trek to which I was looking forward to were the chance to spot Gangkhar Puensum,the highest unclimbed mountain in the world and Chomolhari, the second highest peak of Bhutan.

On our first day of the trek we had a hearty breakfast in our hotel and then we started off in our coaster for the trek's starting point.We bid goodbye to the staff of the hotel as this was the end of our stay in Paro and we were to finish our trek in Thimphu,the capital of Bhutan. The starting point of the trek is near the National Museum which lies on the outskirts of Paro. We reached the starting point after 30 mins.Our support team was already waiting for us. There were 3 porters and a few horses. All the equipment and food stuff was packed and ready.As soon as we reached, after a brief round of introductions, whoever had opted to give his rucksack for the horses to carry, gave away their bags. Only Satya, Ishita didi and myself carried our bags.Our starting elevation was 2540MSL and the time was 0840Hrs. We started off, six of us, with our bags and sticks.There comes a phase 15 to 20 minutes after a trek starts when you feel that this is a lot harder than you thought than it would be.The bag feels heavier and your lungs cry for rest but as time passes these feelings fade away.This happened to me on every trek.

A farmhouse

Initially,the trail is wide and passes by a few picturesque farmhouses with apple orchards but we couldn't spot any apples.We passed by a small dwelling where an adorable toddler was playing around in the veranda. We stopped here for a bit and enjoyed the little kid's antics. We scampered off when we heard Durgaji calling out for us.

The surroundings at the beginning of the trek were a bit dry. There were few trees scattered around and far away we could spot the rugged mountains.Everything was deathly quiet with only our chatter breaking the silence now and then.At one point the silence was broken by a roar of the engines of a plane which slowly came into our view as it took off from the Paro Airport.It took a sharp turn as we were looking.We stood there watching the plane make its turn and slowly disappear into the crystal blue skies. With it was gone the roar of the engines and once again we were immersed in the silence.

Mani wall

We were gradually gaining elevation and Slowly the dry barren landscape turned into a green one and we were beginning to get enveloped by the trees.After an hour we reached a wall.This is called the mani wall.The altitude here is 2860MSL. Satya was using the google tracks application to measure our distance and till that point we had covered 3km. This mani wall marked the end of our gradual ascent and from here onwards the trail took a sharp ascent through a dense forest.There was not much change in the scenery for the next couple of hours as we trudged along the leaves covered path.

At around 12 noon it was decided to have lunch. We all sat down under the shade of a few trees. The sun was warm and the shade offered a welcome respite from its heat. The lunch itself was nothing much.A mashed potato,a banana, a sandwich and a tetra pack of fruti. Food was one of the major disappointments of the trek agency we employed.

Lunch 

After lunch we resumed walking and an hour later we as we were walking up over a particularly steep section we could see a Monastery far away. This was the Jele Dzong Monastery mentioned in the trek schedule.(The time was 1205Hrs, the altitude was 3400MSL at that Point and the distance covered was 6.42km.)

The monastery was still faraway and the path was uphill but Sangayji encouraged us by saying that our camp lay downhill.We finally reached our camps at around 1pm. Our campsite lay at 3360MSL and we had covered a distance of 6.75Km from our starting point to our campsite.The tents were already set up by our support team who had overtaken us during the trek. There in between the tents a sheet was laid out on which were placed some of our bags. I walked over to this sheet and flinging over my bag on it sat down myself.The camp site was beautiful.Located at the foot of a hill on which stood that Monastery,the campsite was surrounded by shrubs and bushes for the most part with trees jutting here and there.Far away we could see mountains but for the most part we couldn't see any snow covered peaks because of the hazy weather.

Pushing aside my bag I laid down there on the sheet, under the open sun. The sun shone warmly on my closed eyelids as my chest heaved up and down taking in the air.It felt wonderful after that tiring trek. A few others joined in too. Seeing this Durgaji cautioned us not to fall asleep as it may lead to loss of sleep in the night disrupting our body's time table. He was right and it is always better not to fall asleep in the afternoons there. Since the Campsite lay at an altitude of 3450 MSL, a high altitude zone,we started to feel the effects of the altitude. I was having a mild headache and some uneasiness.

Ravi and myself chose a tent for ourselves and took our things in. I unpacked my sleeping bag and got in to take some rest. Inspite of our guides warning not to take any medicines I took my migraine pill and syrup because as I like to say to myself, I know my body best.After 30 minutes I was slipping into an uneasy sleep. As I was teetering between sleep and being awake I was woken up by satya calling me out for a walk to the Monastery.

Our campsite 

I woke up rather reluctantly and with a lot of persuasion. I in turn woke up Ravi and together we got out. The others except were already ready and we all walked off in the direction of the Monastery.It was another uphill climb and with a lot of whining we reached the top. The Monastery lay at the top of the hill with a winding path approaching it on the other side. As we approached it I could make out that it was damaged in many parts and looked a bit worn down. From the path we took from campsite we emerged to the side of the actual entrance and here and there I could make out patches of wall broken.

The Jele Dzong Monastery

Sangayji went inside first to ask for permission.He came out with a young monk following him. The monk was a sprightly lad of eleven years.We followed him and entered from another entrance. He took us over creaky stairs and past dust filled walls to a huge hall. This hall was dominated by a massive statute in the middle. This was spectacular. Out in the hills, miles away from anywhere,in the middle of nowhere,inside this ancient monastery, was this huge statue.I was overawed by it. The walls were lined with shelves containing books and other stuff. We asked the monk about the history of the place. He didn't say much but quietly went away and brought with him a sheet of paper which he handed over to us. There was a brief history about the place written on the sheet. We sat down on the wooden floor and read it.There wasn't much written there which I didn't already know. After spending some time there we moved out. It was a pity pictures aren't allowed.That massive statute sitting in that hall was a sight to behold.

After a bit of casual strolling around the perimeters of the Monastery we made our way back to the campsite. We spent the time till dinner with casual banter. Dinner was served around 7 30 pm in the Dining Tent. I don't remember what was served on that day but during the whole trek the standard fare consisted of different combinations of rice,dal,rotis,soup and a couple of vegetable curries.
After dinner we had nothing to do and the cold was creeping in, so we decided to call it a day and tucked into our sleeping bags. Of course another hour passed with talking from tent to tent and then finally we slept.

Quick Facts
Starting Point- Near National Musuem (2540MSL)
End Point - Near Jele Dzong (3360MSL)
Total Distance - 6.75Km
Total Time- 4 Hrs 25 mins
Mid Point- Mani Wall (2860MSL)

Hike to Taktsang Monastery,Bhutan

Day 1 of my Bhutan Trekking Trip. Click here for the prologue. 

Today,on our first day in Bhutan, a visit to Taktsang Monastery was scheduled.Owning to the location of the monastery this also served as a warm up for the upcoming trek. Taktsang Monastery or the Tigers Nest as it is popularly called is a Buddhist Monastery perched on a cliff in the Paro valley of Bhutan. The present structure grew from a temple built in the 1692 on a site where Guru Padmasambhava,the most revered teacher in Bhutan, is said to have meditated. The name Tigers's Nest is believed to have come from the legend that stated that Guru Padmasambhava came to this temple from Tibet flying on the back of a Tigress.

Apart from the spiritual and the religious aspects, the most striking aspect of the temple is its incredible location.The whole temple clings to the side of a cliff and looks right out from a fairy tale.I had looked up the pics on the net before the trip and I was mighty excited to finally see the structure with my own eyes.

The day had begun quite nicely. I woke up to bright sunny light spraying into my room.As I lay in bed I saw that Ravi had already gotten up and was looking out from the window. I jumped out and joined him. For the first time we had a good view of the Paro city.The day before we had arrived in darkness to the city and also in our tiredness we couldn't get a good view.Now in broad daylight the city looked gorgeous. From my window I could see the street which lay diagonally ahead. The street was lined with buildings in traditional architecture.Like I mentioned in my previous post its mandatory for all buildings to follow Govt rules which include having a traditional look. On the clean pavements, people were going about their daily chores.Men in their ghos (traditional dress) and women in their beautiful and graceful kiras hurried along.There were kids in their colourful ghos running to school. It was a sunny day and this scene woke me up completely. We got ready and hurried downstairs for our breakfast. Soon others joined. The hotel staff had prepared for us a typical Indian meal.Though we enjoyed it we made it a point to ask them to make us a Bhutanese meal so that we could enjoy the local cuisine.

After the breakfast we got into our ride, the cute looking Coaster and started off for the monastery. The bus wound its way through the spotlessly clean and ordered streets of Paro as it coasted (what else?) along at a gentle pace. The surroundings were beautiful all around.The day was sunny and the weather pleasant. After a drive of around 50 mins we reached the site from where our hike to the famed monastery was to start.

The Climb. (Alt. 2480 MSL)
Having got off from the bus I looked around at the surroundings.We were standing at the foot of the series of hills,on one of which stood that spectacular monastery but we couldn't see it yet as we were surrounded by trees all around. Immediately before us lay the path as it started out from the middle of a row of souvenir shops. There were a lot of tourists already present and still more were arriving in vehicles most of them being coasters and imported cars.Looking at this rate of incoming tourists and keeping in mind the climb of 3 hours before us, our Bhutanese guide,Sangayji nudged us to start walking on the trail. We did so and soon fell into the rhythmic walk that comes with treks.The area was covered with trees and bushes.Here and there some rocky terrain popped up but overall the trail wasn't that exciting.Soon we passed by a prayer wheel.This was the second time we were seeing a prayer wheel.It was placed inside a beautiful structure and was driven by the flowing of a stream running through it.The usual prayer wheels have chants written on papers stored inside them and it is said that  rotating them has the same effect as orally reciting them.The prayer wheels which we were seeing here were turned by water and it is believed that the water which touches the prayer wheels becomes blessed and carries its purifying power into all life forms. There were three of these structures, one after the other on the same stream and it was very beautiful to look at.Reminded me of the poem 'The brook' but this particular brook was made more beautiful with the prayer wheels and the structures which housed them.We took a few pics here and then moved on. As we were walking a horse passed us by with a tourist sitting on it.Suddenly the horse gave a jerk and she shrieked something to her friends who were a little behind us. I could make out that the language was Chinese. There were a lot of tourists from China and Japan I later observed.Coming back to the lady on the horse, a guide ran to her and comforted the horse who then resumed its casual stroll and the lady relaxed.

After sometime we reached a plain area from where we could spot the monastery lying far away on another hill.We stopped here for sometime to take some rest.I sat on a rock in front of a magnificent prayer wheel carved with colorful figures.I looked around. Ishita didi was fiddling with her DSLR setting it up and tuning it.She had this bulky cam pack strapped on which looked a bit funny but served her purpose excellently.She could take out her camera very swiftly and I know,for a photography enthusiast, how important that swiftness is.I shifted my gaze to Abhishek. He was sweating profusely and looking at the still faraway monastery. It was the same with Ravi. He too was sweating heavily.In fact it looked as though I was the only one not sweating much. Satya and Amitji were deeply engrossed in a conversation while looking at the prayer wheel behind me.A bit ahead there was a row of small prayer wheels. This was exactly of the kind I saw in the central plains of India in chhattisgarh. After this quick and welcome break we started off again. After another round of walking uphill for quite some time we reached a small cafe set up by the Bhutanese govt.This was a welcome stop. As soon as we reached the cafe (2800 MSL) an elderly man came up to us and offered us coffee.We gladly took a cup and settled on one of the benches there.The view from here was breathtaking.There were lots of tourists here.I looked around to see if I could strike up a conversation with anyone but everyone was either in groups or in pairs.So I let it go and concentrated on my coffee instead. When it was time to go we found out that the coffee was Rs 120 each.We were surprised by this exorbitant price but had no option but to pay and move on.We,then resumed our trek over the trail.

the cafe

The Monastery ( 2950MSL)
As I rounded off over the next bend over the well maintained stone stairs I saw the monastery emerge in front of me. For the first time the structure looked very near and huge. It lay just ahead on the next hill . From this point I could make out the entrance and the different levels. I could spot a large number of tourists near the entrance.The stairs from this point first descended to a bridge that ran over a small waterfall.After crossing this bridge I could see a few small structures to my left in the caves in the hill side. One of them was the place where a disciple and later companion of Guru Padmasambahava did her meditation.And the crevices in the rock were crammed with 'tsa-tsas', small reliquaries containing ashes of the dead.

From here the stairs ascended again and soon we reached the entrance of the Monastery. Here there were a couple of Bhutanese soldiers and a number of monks in their bright red robes. I smiled at a few as I walked by towards a small room where we were required to keep all our belongings including mobiles and cameras.After being frisked by the guards there we walked inside. There lay ahead of us another set of stairs.I heard a few groans behind me from tired tourists frustrated at seeing another set of stairs to climb.I muffled a laugh and looked around to see how our group was doing. Everyone was excited and I saw no signs of frustration.

We moved past a slow walking couple and entered a small corridor at the end of which lay the main chamber. Here we were asked to remove our shoes which we did and entered.The entrance was small and quite nondescript but the in the center of the room lay a huge statue of Padmasambhava. There were all kinds of scrolls,candles,butter lamps, small figurines and books all around.The thick smell of incense hung over the room as some tourists stood respectfully near the door while others bowed down before the statue. Our guide told us a few bits of history of the place. I already knew most of it from the book I read about Bhutan before coming.We stood there for ten minutes and then moved on to the next area.This other room looked like a study. There was a raised seat near a window surrounded by books,scrolls and other stuff. This window offered spectacular views of the surrounding valley.We then moved on to the third room which was the candle room. There were hundreds of butter lamps here and the strong smell of butter hung in the room. There was an attendant helping out those who wished to light a lamp.There were fixed prices for different sized lamps. The minimum was Rs25 or 25 Ngultrum. We then spent some time near a vantage point which offered some magnificent views of the surrounding valley. Then it was time to go.More tourists kept coming by the minute and Sangayji made us move out. It takes around 45 minutes to an hour for the tour of the Monastery. I am not much of a spiritual person and I was only interested in the location, architecture and history of the place.On all three accounts I was thrilled by Taktsang. The only person who was a bit spiritually inclined in our group was Amitji. He even spent a few minutes meditating, sitting on the floor in one of the rooms.

The descent
We retraced our way over the same path to reach the Cafe in the afternoon.Here we had our lunch. The food is expensive there and whatever spirituality we had experienced in the Taktsang vanished at the sight of the bill. So be advised to bring a lot of cash with you while hiking up to Taktsang.The food for lunch there included the local Bhutanese dish 'Ema Datshi' which is nothing but Chili and cheese.If you have a weak stomach I strongly suggest you don't have it. If you have a trek ahead then it is not worth taking the risk. After that lunch we went back the same way we came from and reached the row of souvenir shops at the base. We bought a few souvenirs there.
After our small shopping we went back to our hotel. It was late afternoon by then and we spent a few hours huddled inside our rooms.In the evening we went outside for a stroll. The weather was cool and there was a very thin drizzle falling. Our day ended with a delicious dinner.

Things to note
1. Take enough cash with you if you plan to eat at the Cafeteria on the way to Taktsang. All the items there are very expensive.
2. Do not buy stuff from the shop near the cafeteria. They sell souvenirs at thrice the normal cost. You can buy stuff from the shops near the starting point.
3. The hike up to the monastery is tiring.Make no mistake about it.So be prepared.
4. When you pass by a prayer wheel always do so from the left side.You always have to rotate a prayer wheel in the clockwise direction. So always pass from the left while rotating it.
5. All the altitudes mentioned above were noted from my Suunto Vector Altimeter watch.Please note that it is based on the barometric pressure method of determining altitude and may vary slightly with the actual altitude.

that's me!

Prologue.Trekking Trip to Bhutan

The Plan
The plan to visit Bhutan germinated in my mind for two reasons.One and the main was that I never went to any foreign country before.The second was the chance to trek in a different region.Over time other reasons added up and by 3 months before the target date it was firmly decided to visit Bhutan with all research looking for any alternatives was dropped.Now it was time to call up my friends and see who were interested.After a lot of calls and discussions,3 of my friends were in.One of my friend's cousin was also interested so finally our group consisted of 5 members including me.The dates were then decided.April 8th to April 16th suited everyone and were fixed. Then I called up GIO adventures and began negotiations for the trek itinerary.It was decided to spend the first day in Paro and visit the Taktsang Monastery.The trek would begin from the second day and would end at Thimphu on the sixth day. We would depart from Thimphu on the seventh day. The plan was simple and straight forward.

My trek stuff

The Preparation
Planning and preparation are two of the most thrilling aspects of any trip and I take great pleasure in doing both. After all the planing with respect to people,dates and itinerary was done it was time to now prepare for the trek.This was my first visit to a country outside India and I was determined to find out more this country.I started off with the usual stuff.Read Lonely Planet guide for Bhutan,then the surprisingly good wikitravel entries. I looked up other blog entries for the trek and the country.I gleaned a lot of information out of these posts.And then once I was once talking to an acquaintance who,I knew had a Tibetan background.I casually asked him about Bhutan and luckily for me he said he had a friend in Thimphu,the Capital of Bhutan.This friend of his was a scholar and had authored a book on the history of Bhutan.My friend,Mr Sam Wangyal gave me his friends address and phone number in case I get a chance to meet him in Thimphu. I bought the book that his friend wrote and finished it just days before we took off for our trip. The book was hugely informative and by the time I finished it I had a very good idea about Bhutan's past and how its whole journey from an extremely isolated country to the present status of it being the last Shangri La had came about.
The next part was the equipment.I already had all the required stuff and had no problem whatsoever ins getting my trek bag ready. A very exciting addition to this trek was the Suunto Vector Altimeter watch my brother gifted me.

The book written by my friend's friend.

The Team
Our team for this trekking trip to Bhutan consisted of 6 persons. Three of them, Abhishek,Raviteja and Satya were my childhood friends. Abhishek and Satya were also there with me on our spectacular Roopkund Trek in the state of Uttarakhand,India.For ravi this was his first trek.Then there was abhishek's cousin Ishita Didi. She is a regular trekker and had done 3 Himalayan treks and a number of treks in the Western Ghats.For Yours truly this trek was the third after Nag Tibba and Roopkund.
We were to meet our sixth member in New Jalpaiguri. This person had booked the trip independently.

The Assembly
Satya and myself started from Raigarh in Chhattisgarh and reached Kolkata on May 11.Our train to New Jalpaiguri was in the night at 2100Hrs. Abhishek started from Hyderabad and reached Kolkata in the afternoon. Ravi started from Ahmedabad and reached with an hour of Ishita didi's arrival from Bangalore. So at around 2030 hrs our team was assembled.

The next morning we reached New Jalapiguri station a full 2 hours late where we were met by Durgaji our guide for the trek. Three of us did the roopkund trek with Durgaji last year and we were glad to have him for this trek as well. The weather at Jalpaiguri was horrible.It was very hot and the humidity was high. As we dragged our rucksacks over to the parking lot where our vehicle was waiting we were soaked in sweat. Rivulets of sweat kept forming on my face as I kept sweeping them aside. This humid weather was in complete contrast to what I had expected of Jalpaiguri. And I said the same to Abhishek who belonged to these areas. He was just as surprised as myself by it.

We had an Innova waiting for us and after settling down inside we started our journey to Bhutan.Since we were late and the border closed down at 1700Hrs we had to leave quickly.(The border closes down early on weekends.Always call beforehand and get the latest updates about the border Rules.They seem to change quite frequently)As Sherlock Holmes would say 'We haven't a moment to lose'.So we did not stop anywhere to freshen up and started off immediately. We picked up our 6th member of the team Amit from his hotel in New Jalpaiguri. He looked well built and it was evident that he was a regular gymmer. Introductions soon followed and we learnt that he was from Mumbai and this was his first trek.

The Journey
By 12 noon,With all the members assembled we were well and truly on, on our journey to the land of the thunder dragon. Our car sped off through the dusty and hot countryside towards the border town of Jaigaon some 150 km away. We passed by a number of tea plantations as we went. We reached Jaigaon at around 4pm. We crossed over to Bhutan and entered the Bhutanese town Phuentsholing. Here we had to complete the permit formalities. This town was our first view of Bhutan and we were left much impressed. The stark difference in the surroundings is visible as soon as the border is crossed.The roads were clean,the traffic was disciplined.The buildings were ordered.There were no random stalls or haphazard constructions. Add to it the traditional architecture and the traditional dresses of the populace,the whole town was refreshingly different from the same part of the town in India.On top of that when we stood on the edge of a road to cross it ,waiting for the vehicles to clear we were mighty surprised to see people stop their car and motion us to crossover.This was not a one off incident.It kept happening for the rest of the trip.

Having completed our permit formalities and after this wonderful first impression of Bhutan we moved on to our destination,Paro. It was dusk soon and as we started our climb over the mountains. Phuentsholing is at around 1000 MSL and Paro is at 2200 MSL. So we had 1100ms to gain. As the light faded we couldn't make out anything outside so one by one we fell asleep. We woke up near a town called Chukha. Here we stopped at a small convenience store and bought a few eatables.The dried mango slices which we bought here were talked about till the end of the tour.They were delicious.The shop was lovely and charming.It even had a prayer wheel at the front.

We finally reached Paro at around 2200Hrs. As we entered Paro everything was quiet and I couldn't spot anyone on the streets.We passed by a number of exquisite buildings.I don't know if its only me but I found all the buildings in Bhutan to be very beautiful including Our hotel. Our hotel was called Samden Norzin. It had a splendid front. But we were very tired so we just had the delicious dinner prepared for us and directly went to our rooms. The rooms were quaint and homely. Ravi and I took one room.Now a big problem presented itself. Who goes first for the bath? Friends being friends we fought for nearly 15 minutes and finally I gave in. Ravi went it triumphantly waving his towel mockingly at me.Later after a rejuvenating bath I had only one thing to do.Slip inside the cozy and welcoming blankets. As I slowly drifted into sleep I smiled to myself thinking about my first finally happening foreign visit.

Out hotel. Ravi on the left and satya on the right.

My room

Everything you need to know about the Bhutan's Druk Path trek

The Druk Path trek is one of the most popular treks in the small yet beautiful country of Bhutan.Myself along with my friends did it last month.It was a wonderful experience.

Bhutan,especially in India,is very little known. Not many people consider going there. Trekking in Bhutan is even more unheard of which is a pity because Bhutan will leave you spellbound both in its cities and in the wilderness.Now with that short account of what I felt about out trip/trek let me move forward to the main intention of this post i.e to throw some light on some important info about the Druk Path Trek which will help you plan your own trip. 

First,this is a Himalayan Trek which starts from Paro (a city) and ends in Thimphu (Capital of Bhutan).This is not a 'summit' trek where the goal is to reach a peak or a highest point and from the base camp and then descend. This is A to B trek.From one point to another traversing through some 

wonderful scenery.The path takes you through rhododendron and pine forests,some stunning lakes and old creaking monasteries.  

Claim to Fame-

1. Beautiful lakes en route

2. Short and arguably most popular trek of Bhutan

3. Stunning views of Mt. Gangkar Puensum, the highest unscaled peak in the world.(In our case the weather was not good and we did not get any views)

Region-

The trek starts in Paro which is in Chukha Dzongkhag(District) and ends in Thimphu(Thimphu Dzongkhag).Both of these cities lie in the western part of Bhutan.

Best time to do it-

There are two windows for this trek.
1.March-May.
2.September- November.
I will be talking about everything related to the March-May window in this blog post.

Duration-The whole trek starting from Paro and ending at Thimphu typically takes 5 days.It can be done leisurely in 6 days too or If you are fit enough it can be done in 4 days also.

Distance- Around 50 to 60kms

Grade-This is described as a Moderate trek. There is some amount of physical work required but relatively speaking I found this easier than my last trek ie Roopkund trek. First timers can easily do it by doing some amount of training for it. Indiahikes formula of running 5km in 30 mins will be more than enough for this trek.

Medicines-Altitude Sickness plays a factor in this trek.So be prepared with medicines.AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) differs from person to person.Some may get affected by while some may remain completely free from it.I strongly advise everyone to carry a set of medicines with you.While Diamox is the medicine for AMS,the various trekking agencies have differing opinions about it,Some suggest taking it may cause more harm than good.The locals prefer taking roasted garlic for every problem.

Even if you are the sort of person who despises taking tablets I suggest you carry a strip of Paracetamol with you.Calpol 500mg or 250mg is a good option.Make sure it is pure paracetamol.It shouldn't be added with any other compound.You never know what side effects it may cause.

Equipment- No matter what the trek, equipment always plays a huge factor in how much you enjoy your trek. And remember always pack keeping in mind emergencies.99% of the time you might not need them but prepare for that 1%.

My top 3 must have items on this trek apart from the usual sweaters,jackets,raincoats and rain pants are-

1.Torch (A torch is essential for movement in the night.Although there is no night time trekking involved having a torch is vital for movement between tents in the night)

2. At least 5 pair of socks (I carried 7 pairs with one woolen pair included.Woolen pair was for the night). With the many monasteries you have to enter, it is better for everyone to have a good clean pair of socks on your legs.The moment you remove your shoes it shouldn't send the monks into a pain induced trance.Thank you.

3.Garbage bags (Do not underestimate the worth of garbage bags.They have a number of uses.They can be used to store wet clothes,your chappals,sometimes shoes,your valuables in case of a rain.)

And finally the Trek Agency-

Choosing a trek agency is very critical.Remember the following points when choosing an agency
1.They are responsible for your fooding and lodging all throughout the trek.You don't have other options once you start the trek.You solely depend on the agency
2.They are responsible for your safety. The competency of your guide and his team is vital.Good guides are certified First Aiders and have undergone proper mountaineering courses
3.You get to use their gear.Good agencies use good gear.Simple really.
4.Go with agencies that do treks with small groups.Easy to manage and ensures proper safety of all.
5.Choose established agencies as they have local contacts in the villagers and can be of huge help in case of emergencies.

Apart from the above points you have to keep in mind one very important thing.In Bhutan it is a policy to take the services of a local trek agency only.That means whatever Indian agency that is offering treks in Bhutan has a Bhutanese counterpart which is providing the actual services.

We did our trek with GIO. This was my third trip with GIO after doing Nagtibba Trek and Roopkund Trek. Their services are excellent and there was a reason I was taking their services for this trek also. But GIO left me a tad bit disappointed this time.The Bhutanese agency which they engaged was simply not good.The food was not upto the mark and the hotels were disappointing. 

Add to that the way GIO handled a couple of last minute changes in the Border regulations left me angry.I believe that to be a one off bad experience with GIO. I have written to them and am still awaiting a explanation from them. Anyway point is, be very careful in choosing an agency.Find out how many treks they have organised in Bhutan till date and always inquire about the Bhutanese agency which they will be employing.

A short plan of the trek-

Day 1: Paro to Jili Dzong (3450MSL) 

Trek/4-5 hrs
Total Ascent-1090mtr

Day 2:Jili dzong to Jang chulakha (3760MSL) 

 Trek/5-6 hrs
Ascent-310mtr
Descent- 50mtr

Day 3: Jang Chulakah to Jimilang Tsho -Jana Tsho(3956MSL)  

Trek/7-8 hrs
Descent- 230mtr
Ascent- 330mtr

Day 4: Jana Tsho to Phajoding (3600MSL)

Trek/6-7 hrs

Day 5: Phajoding to Thimphu (2300MSL) 

Trek/3-4 hrs 

Over the next few weeks I will be writing a day to day report of the entire trek.Stay tuned.