Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary,Chhattisgarh

'Seek the Tiger,Find the Jungle' So goes the catchphrase of a Jungle Resort advertisement along with a picture of a tiger which in turn is made up of pictures of a number of other animals.The first time I saw that ad I was totally enticed by it.I decided then itself that I would someday go on a jungle safari to spot a tiger.That was a year back and just three days back i visited the Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary near Bilaspur to try my luck at spotting a tiger.I did a lot of research,studied maps,dug out old info from the internet and carefully planned our trip.Here goes my trip report.

Trip Report

Day 1

Satya and myself started off from our hostel at 7 30am and arrived at raigarh by 9am.Then we boarded the azad hind express and reached bilaspur by 12 noon.Our car was waiting for us and after having breakfast and doing some shopping for the trip ahead of us we started at around 1 30pm.Midway we decided to skip lunch and head directly to achanakmar village and take the afternoon safari which starts at 2 30pm.The distance from bilaspur to achanakmar is around 60km and we reached achanakmar by 2 45pm.To our dismay we found that the Gypsys available with the Forest Dept were already booked and we had to take our own vehicle with us.The cost for private vehicle is Rs1300 and for the gypsy it is Rs2000.Diesel Vehicles are not encouraged here though they allow them.We completed the formalities at the gate and a guide was allotted to us.Every vehicle is allotted a guide and it is mandatory to take one.So with our guide we made our way inside.





The path inside is a kacha road with two distinct ways for the tyres on each side with some growth of grass in the middle.Half an hour into the forest we came acros a village called Sarasdol.It is a beautiful little village.A little ahead there is open area with knee length grass all around..Our guide tells us that this in this area there is high probability of spotting animals.We saw a whole bunch of monkeys lazily sitting in the grass.The animals come here to sit in the sunshine.This is the only time we got the opputunity to get down from our car. We stopped by an anti poaching unit shelter and our guide chatted with the guys inside and tried to get the latest info about the animal movements.After this little stop we moved ahead.Sometime later we saw bisons crossing the path ahead and we stopped.The guide told the driver to switch off the engine and the driver promptly complied.We stared at the animals and took some snaps.The bisons were huge.Our guide told us that one time a bison got annoyed with a car's presence and attacked,overthrowing the whole car.We started again as soon as the bisons were out of our path.




I was deeply immersed into this whole animal spotting thing and was thinking of the stories of Jim Corbett and the many other stories of man eating lions when suddenly something came underneath our tyres and gave a loud crackling sound.I jumped in excitement and fear at the same time.It was a fallen branch of a tree.I relaxed.The whole jungle atmosphere and the stories my mind was throwing up got to me and I reminded myself that I was fooling myself with all such thinking.One more hour passed and nothing showed up.It was getting dusk and light was slowly falling.Our guide then took us to the Majhidongri Watchtower.It is on a high altitude and we could see all around the forest from here.The view was spectacular.There are two watchtowers.This one and the other at

Kumhipani which is inaccessible by car.From here we moved to a lake.Just fours days back a tiger was spotted here drinking water.We stopped by here and scanned the whole perimeter of the lake.Again nothing.We started off.By now light had fallen considerably and our driver had to switch on his headlights.A little ahead we saw deers.Lots of them.We stopped,took some pics which didnt come out because of the fading light.After this we reached the starting point and thus ended out first safari.At the gate the attendant told us that a gypsy was available for use the next day and we could book it today itself.After a brief discussion amongst ourselves we decided to take the it and booked it.We then moved off to a nearby coffee center.We had coffee and some snacks and then went for our resort at Shivtarai.We

had some difficulty in finding it.What with the darkness all around.Green Valley Resort is located behind a High school.It offers nothing but the bare minimum.The rooms were bare.The Food was excellent though.We ordered dal,egg curry,rotis and rice.We sat outside,wearing our winter wear, in the open under the stars.The chill passed through our clothes and was making us uncomfortable.One mouthful of dal fry and roti later a comfortable warmth seeped inside.We finished our dinner and were soon fast asleep.I would suggest you book this resort as your last resort(no pun intended).Try the Forest Rest House first at shivtarai first.All the other FRHs(Lamni,Chaparwa,Achanakmar ,ataria) have been closed for tourists.The only stay options are at Shivtarai and next at Amarkantak.This is in view to protect the core zone.




Day 2





The next day we woke up at 5am and were off by 6am.Everything was still dark and light was slowing approaching.We reached the gate and after completing the formalities a gypsy was alotted to us.Our driver excited by the previous days experiance joined us.So the five of us the gypsy driver,the guide,our driver,satya and myself started off in our gypsy.Three of us satya,the guide and myself stood on the back.This was thrilling ! It felt like those discovery shows where they go on safaris in the plains of africa. The engine hummed quietly,twigs got crushed underneath the gypsys tyres,somewhere far birds chirped and I kept my eyes glued to the path ahead of us in



the hope of spotting something. On our second attempt I was hoping to catch a glimpse of a predator.

I imagined myself to be a famous hunter out in the jungles on the trail of a tiger.I had watched ghost and the darkness a long time ago and the story kept revolving in my mind.This time our route was a different one we started off from where we ended the previous day.We reached Majhidongri Watchtower again and the views were even better than before.The mist in the mountains added more charm to the already spectacular view.Next on the route was tha lake at Sivahalsagar.Our guide told us if lucky we could watch crocodiles sunbathing.But we had no such luck.We saw a tame elephant


though.There are four elephants in the sanctuary.One of them was very angry.It was pacing to and forth and one of the mahouts kept saying that there was lot of 'heat' inside him.Whatever that meant.There was a shelter here and we spent half an hour talking with the mahouts.They entertained us by telling stories of how they catch elephants and tame them.After spending some time here we moved on.On this tour also we saw nothing new.Again we saw bisons,deers,wild hens and langurs.Though a tad bit dissipointed we were satisfied at having experienced our first jungle safari.Our tour ended by 10 30am.From here we went back to bilaspur,did some shopping,had lunch and by 5pm we were on our way back to raigarh.Thus ended one of my best trips in chhatissgarh.

In Brief

->Achanakmar Village is around 55km from Bilaspur.

->Shivtarai comes in between and is around 15km form Achanakmar WS Gate.

->We hired a scorpio from Saigal Travels from Bilaspur(9039631630).Rs1200 for One day plus Rs 8 per KM.They also offer a Gypsy with a package.Rs 6000 including 150km.Maa Travels(9827888704) are also good.I had good experience with them on my previous trip to Ratanpur.

->The only Stay options are FRH(Forest Office,Bilaspur,9752458999)(Co st is Rs600/day) at Shivtarai and Green Valley Resort at Shivtarai(Rs1200/day and Rs1500 per day.Both negotiable)

->Bring a SUV.Sedans and Hatchbacks can't negotiate the path inside the jungle.Also a Diesel Vehicle is preferable.

->Inside tell the guide to cover the open wide area near Sarasdol,the Majhidongri Watchtower and the lake at Siwahalsagar.

Ratanpur Fort and Kutaghat Dam,Chhattisgarh

Second Gate

First Gate

Ratanpur is a tiny town some 25 km from Bilaspur.Last sunday we made a trip there.Me and siddharth started off from our hostel in Tamnar at 4 30am.We reached Raigarh,had our breakfast then boarded the Azad Hind Express at 7am.We reached Bilaspur at sharp 9am.There Pruthvi and Amit joined us and by 9 40am we were off in our hired indica.After 45 monutes or so we reached near the Kaal Bhairav Temple which comes a little before Ratanpur.This temple is believed to be a Tantric centre.Here we stopped for 15 minutes and Pruthvi,Siddharth and Amit went inside the temple while i stolled around on the road taking in the village sights.After their visit we started off again and reached the main Mahamaya Temple at Ratanpur at around half past ten.Again the three of them went and I had a look around.

Third Gate

        Next on our list was the Fort,the Hathi Qila built by King Prithvi Deva.This fort is near the old bus stand of Ratanpur.It is much better than what is described in the various sites on the internet.The main entrance is a simple structure having a doorway which leads to another gateway.This second gate has some scupltures which the tourism dept brochure describes as Ravana performing Yajana with various gods.From here we moved inside.The area of the fort is moderate, quite more than what one would expect given the vague descriptions on the internet.The fort area is maintained nicely with grass neatly cut and clear footways.We came across a fountain with four paths leading away from it.It is beautiful and one of the paths leads to a building which is in ruins.This is one of the three Rajmahals inside.The other two are no way better off than this one.We wandered around and came to the end where the third gate is.The whole fort is surrounded by water bodies.Two paths cut across which lead to the first and the third gate.
Near one of the Rajmahals some digging was going on and on asking we found out that Archeological Society of India was responsible for it.We started a conversation with one of them.Gauging our interest one of them gave us some ASI Brochures of other places nearby.Mr Neeraj was happy talking with us and gave us some useful info regarding the buildings inside the fort and other areas.The fort can be covered by keeping to the path on the right.It will make a circle around the fort and ends again near the first gate.
We were inside the fort complex for around 2 hours and leisurely covered everything.
Next on our list was the Kutaghat Dam just 10kms ahead.The dam itself is nothing spectacular.Its a storage dam.Good for a picnic.There is facility for a stay overnight.
Next was a visit to the Badal mahal in the small historic town Juna.To reach Juna you have to take a left turn while coming from bilaspur to ratanpur which leads to Kota on the way to Amarkantak.The fort i s totally in ruins with only 4 of the 7 storeys still standing.There are some small pillars which are the only recognizable feature.It is said that King Rajasimha constructed this mahal for his queen Kajra Devi.It is an example of kalachuri Architecture.

Badal Mahal at Juna

Kutaghat Dam

Third Gate

Staying Facilities at Kutaghat Dam

Brief
Ratanpur(25km from Bilaspur)
What to see- Hathi Qila (Fort) and Badal Mahal at Juna
And Kutaghat Dam
Car Rental services we used- Maa Travels
Total trip cost us Rs1300.

Cycling in the Countryside.

Cycling is one of those activities which excites and relaxes at the same time.Also its ideal for taking in the atmosphere of a place.You get to move slowly and have a look at the surroundings.You dont have to worry about parking or license or fuel.Two months back I bought myself a Hero CityBike Neon.I use it to commute to my work site.Up until this sunday I didnt get a chance to take it out for a ride in the countryside.
This sunday I did and I took it for a ride.As it is winter I covered myself in a sweater,a jacket,a pair of gloves,a beanie and a double pair of socks just make sure I don't catch any cold.And then I took out my cycle and out I went for the much awaited trip.The morning was chilly with fog all around,I could see just a couple of 100 metres ahead. I went as far as 3kms before I decided to stop by a small stream.Here I sat down on a boulder and looked around.The birds were chirping,the stream was calm,the water moving smoothly down stream.I tucked my hands inside of my jacket and for some time played around with the vapour my breath was producing as I exhaled.I sat idly watching the few villagers who were outside and going to their work.After sometime I had a thought that it would be perfect to call up a friend and have a chat in these calm and peaceful surroundings and decided to call shoaib as he would be the only one who would be awake so early on a sunday morning.We talked for sometime and then I hung up and soon I started my return.I stopped by a roadside bandi and had hot local bada(vada).Then I was back to my room having successfully completed my first cycle venture outside the plant.

Mainpat,Chhattisgarh

Summary
There are two kinds of small hillstations in India,the normal ones and the underrated ones.Mainpat falls in the latter type.With green slopes,beautiful valleys,gently flowing brooks,unexplored waterfalls,virgin forests and the scope it offers for exploration Mainpat is a gem of a hillstation still hidden from the public.A Tibetan settlement here only adds to the charms of this place and offers an excellent chance to interact with a different culture.It doesn't feel like Chhattisgarh when you are in Mainpat area.Granted this happens only during the rainy and winter season.But it will mesmerize you like it did to me when I visited it with my friends last month.Here is the full account

Full account
    On Sunday 7 of  2013, we set out for Mainpat in two Scorpios.We were a group of 14.(As an aside look at the diversity we had.Out of 14,seven people were Telugu speaking,three were Bengali,one was Marathi,one was Odiya,one was Malayalam and myself Urdu) We started out at 7am in the morning from Tamnar.(40km from raigarh, in the north)We had our breakfast in the town of Lailunga.It has nothing much to offer but samosas and Badas to eat.we had to ascend a mountain and then descend before we reached lailunga.There are some good views en route.We again made a stop in Pathalgaon which is a big town.I was quite surprised to find a big town like this in these parts.After reaching Sitapur,on the Ambikapur Highway,we made a detour towards Mainpat.
The first point to visit is the tiger point so called because tigers were spotted here long time back.
Tiger Point
There is a waterfall here which drops from the road level to some 10m down.While driving on the main road some 20km before the town of Kamleswarpur,a road branches off into the jungle.This will lead you to tiger point.This point offers some good views. Theres a small check dam also here.There are steps to take you to the bottom of the fall.Those were very slippery on account of the algae that was formed.Anyway the view of the falls as you descend down the stairs is great!
We got down to the base and sat on the rocks for some time.Ashwin and myself decide to go downstream and reach an area where we could find the darkness of he jungle but the algae on the rocks prevented our progress after some distance.We had quite a few near misses and falls while moving over the rocks.I got a small bruise on my elbow when I slipped and fell.It was nothing compared to what Ashwin experienced though he did not get an injury,he fell head first into a pool of water.He was crossing a part of the stream with the help of a branch of a tree when it broke off and took him head first into the water with his whole body following quickly.Since we all bought an extra pair of clothes it didn't prove to be much of a problem.

Tiger Point downstream

From here we moved on to our next point.I was very much interested in visiting the Tibetian settlements around here.Yes,you read it right theres one right here in Chhattisgarh.Back around the time of independence and after when the tibetians were being given refuge in India some of them settled in these 1000 MSL high areas finding it somewhat similar to their homelands.(when compared to the plains)

As we were on moving on in our car a slight drizzle started and the surroundings presented view after view of breathtaking landscapes.The green what-looked-like-unending slopes with small brooks flowing and inter spread with bright green bushes here and there made the whole area look right out of an English countryside.Everyone in the car was going 'aaah' 'oooh' ' kya to be hai' and cameras clicked away.We stopped the car many times took pics,took in the views and slowly progressed.We took many wrong turns but all proved fruitful as we only found better views in them.One thing to note here is if you have a doubt regarding which road to take better wait for someone to come and then ask them.Density of people here is less and if you take a wrong turn it will be miles before you find out about your mistake.
 We then passed by a Buddhist inspired restaurant It was closed I think when we approached.On the opposite side a dirt road leads to Camp no.2 of the Tibetan settlement.The settlement is beautiful with small quaint cottages spread around dotted with a few brick buildings.Perfect for a stroll.Some of us took one and walked around the camp.We found a Tibetan restaurant inside.
We called up everyone and decided to have our lunch here itself.We had momos,thokpos and some other dishes whose names I don't remember.All were delicious and when we had our fill we moved out.Some of us stuck up small conversations with some Tibetans and got to know about the history of the place.They found the place peaceful and were living a content life.Most of them were second generation Tibetans. I especially wanted to interact with an old woman who was sitting in the restaurant but she was reluctant to talk so we dropped out queries after the first few tries.

The signboard towards camp2 restaurant

    Next on the plan was the Monastery.We asked around for the directions and soon reached it.While going we passed by the only private resort here,The mercury resort.Originally we had planned to visit it but owing to time constraints we dropped the idea.We visited the monastery.It was very beautiful to look at.while we were

Monastery

Camp 2

wandering around pondering whether it was allowed to go inside or not, a monk in all his robes quietly came out from a nearby building and opened the doors presumably for us.We went in.There were pictures all around the walls.There was a dalai lama statue near the central wall.we looked around and then had a small chat with the monk.He was from Himachal Pradesh and was staying there for the past one year.So he had not much idea about the locals.After this brief chat we bid goodbye to him and set off for the next point,the fish point.





Fish Point
We took many wrong turns before we reached the falls.The route passes by the Chhattisgarh Govt resort.This area is called the fish point because of a particular type of fish found here.As we were reaching here just some distance from it we met a group of travelers returning from it.Their car was stuck in the mud and they were trapped here for the last four hours.Fortunately for them we came at just the right time.It was evening and they were beginning to get scared about the failing light.We got down to help them.Soon we realized that if we continued helping them none of us would the chance to see the falls.
So we made groups and while some helped them some set off towards the falls.I was among the first group of people to go.We could hear a distinct sound of water splashing,so we headed in that direction.We found an opening in the bushes and reached the area where the water falls off the cliff.We were at the top area.We sat here for a while enjoying the view and then set off to find a path that would lead us to the bottom where we could see the whole falls.We searched a lot bit were unable to find a safe way. Thats the beauty of this place it is still unexplored and  you can still experiment with the paths and views here.Just a little ahead the valley takes a turn and the views here are spellbinding.I just stood there imagining how nice it would be set up a table right at that spot,sit around and drink coffee.I made a mental note to return to this place with better equipment and explore the region.The light was failing and we knew the dangers of being left behind in the dark there with no proper mobile network.So we quickly hastened our steps and made our way back to the car.We headed back to the main road but not before we made a wrong turn and that took us to yet another place which offered excellent views of the countryside.Two people returning back from work saved us the trouble by guiding us correctly back to the main road.From there we started off on our return journey.We had our dinner in Pathalgaon in a restaurant near the bus stand.It wasn't good but enough to fill our hungry stomachs.By 10pm we reached our hostel in tamnar and that was the end to our visit to the underestimated Mainpat.

The Tibetan Restaurant in Camp 2

In Brief 

Mainpat is 178km from Raigarh and 80km from Ambikapur.

Best time to visit is in the monsoon season and winter season.

Staying options include the privately owned Mercury Resorts and a Govt owned Resort.

A car can be booked from Raigarh.It costs around Rs3000 - Rs4500.People here genrally charge Rs11 per km here.Buses ply between Ambikapur and Raigarh but they are largely unreliable and not comfortable.

Hirakud Dam,Sambalpur,Orissa

Late one night as I was thinking about my impending joining in the company I got placed in,the advice I received from my seniors and cousins started flowing in my mind.They all told the same thing.Enjoy now itself, after starting on a job there won't be much time to enjoy.These words kept on swirling in my mind and at that instance I decided to go on a last trip somewhere nearby before joining.I suggested this to satya and ashwin who readily agreed but abhishek and dido had some work and they declined.
It was 2am in the night when we decided to go to Sambalpur to see the Hirakud Dam.We booked the morning 4 45am bus from Tamnar(our place) to Raigarh and checked out the trains to sambalpur.
I did not sleep the whole night and at 4 30am we started out.We took the bus to raigarh,had our breakfast there and took the Hirakud express,which to our convenience was running late.We reached sambalpur by 10am.Ouside the railway station,as we were discussing our next move,we met a affable auto driver who readily agreed to take us to the Hirakud dam for a reasonable price.We accepted his offer and engaged his auto.Sambalpur is a sleepy town with some big industries around the dam region.It also has british era buildings which I very badly wanted to see but couldn't.We reached the dam after a good 20 mins of ride.The place looked deserted.It had do with the blazing sun above. Obviously we had come at a wrong time.
          As we approach by road we reach one end of the dam.You can have a look towards the catchment area but this side doesn't afford many views.The road on top of the dam is out of limits for tourists.There is
a view point on the right side which has a small hill.Special four wheeled autos take people there.We chose not to go.We looked around for some time in the small building which has a plaque and some other bits of info and then our auto driver told us he would take us another area which was near
to the dam gates.We went there.Bribing the security guard there you can enter the small gate and have a look at the big gates from the side wall.After getting down to near the water and taking some pics we decided to go back.The place has nothing to offer to the casual visitor.Only if you are interested in dams is this place good to visit.We then went to the 'Hong Kong Restaurant' where we had some good sea food.Again in the afternoon the Hirakud Express was running late and this was again to our convenience and we boarded it to reach Raigarh by evening,We reached back to our rooms by night time.And I was now satisfied
that I could start my job without any regrets at least for the time being.

Trip to Konark and Puri,Orissa. Day Two.

We got up early the next day and went to the beach which was close to where we were staying.It was 5am in the morning and even at that time there were many people on the beach.It was evident that the sunrise here was famous and worth your time.We spotted the light of a lighthouse in the distance and Ashwin suggested that we go there.We agreed and started walking towards it.On the way we came across anxiously waiting families not wanting to miss the event,sand artists starting there work and mounds of garbage thrown there right on the beach.

Carefully avoiding all these we soon reached nearby the lighthouse where we were disappointed to realize that it was not on the beach as we anticipated but across the road among some buildings.we decided to remain on the beach though Ashwin later went and saw that it was closed.We made a note to visit it in the evening when it would be open.By the time we reached here it was time for the sunrise.I could see streaks of light slowly illuminating the sky and we waited with our cameras ready but to our dismay there were clouds in the distance and the sun rise was covered by them.After sometime everyone left to visit the Lord Jagannath Temple and I remained back at the beach.I walked around clicking pics and observing the people.I spotted a tea shop  with some chairs around and went there and ordered a tea.The tea tasted bitter but the atmosphere was great.The wind caressing my hair and cheeks,the mild warmth of the sun,and bitter yet refreshing taste of the tea made the moment unforgettable.

                       It was 9am when i made my way back to the hotel and by that time abhishek,ravi,ashwin and satya also came back.We had breakfast at a nearby hotel.while we were eating we saw a procession of people holding a string of beads called a harimala in one hand and a small bag containing what I dont know in the other.Most of the people were foreigners.There were kids too in them.The procession was huge and all of them were chanting and this scene reminded me of the fact that Puri is one of India's biggest spiritual centers and is among the seven holiest places in India.After the breakfast we went back to the hotel to take a short nap.At around 11am we got up and changed into our beach wear.Wearing no footwear we walked around the streets.This was the best moment of this trip for me.Nobody gave us a second look as there were many people doing this.Many people were walking towards the beach and on the busy road i could see many cars arriving with more tourists.As it was sunday the crowd on the beach was huge.I spotted a foreign couple taking a surfboard with them.Soon we reached the beach and moved towards a place where there were relatively less people.We ran towards the water and started jumping and screaming as soon as we touched it.We moved in and the waves started beating down upon us and it was exhilarating. This was my third beach visit after Vishakapatnam and Machilipatnam.Even then the fun was no different.Ashwin didn't join us preferring to stay in the hotel than come and get wet in the water.He became the butt of our jokes for the rest of the trip for this decision.
                        After reluctantly getting out of the waters it was time for lunch.We went to a Bengali Restaurant (Looked as if more than half the population of puri is bengali) called 'Dadi Boudi'.We had some authentic bengali food consisting of different types of fish and prawns.After lunch ravi and abhishek went back to the hotel to get some more sleep while satya,ashwin and myself decided to go to the Lighthouse.We walked there and found that there was still an hour to go before it opens.We spotted a tent and three chairs below it on the beach nearby and made our way there to spend the waiting time.

We interrupted the discussion going on between the two guys who were sitting there and asked about the fare.One of them said its Rs30 per chair per hour.We bargained and in the end got Rs10 for each for the hour.We sat down under the shade.We talked among ourselves while looking over at the sea and it felt good.Soon the time was up and we went to the Lighthouse.It opened just as we went and apart from ourselves there was a middle aged man with his daughter with him.We took the tickets and ascended the spiral staircase and reached the top.We had a look at the modern light Emitting Bulb.We took pics at the top and took in the views it had to offer.After that others joined us and we went shopping in the colourful beach market.I bought a bag for my sister and a Konark wheel which i got for a very low price of Rs20.Others all bought somethings and soon we went back to the hotel as we had a 8pm train to catch.We took parcels of food from a nearby hotel and had our dinner on the train.Thus came to an end my first visit to Orissa.
Note- the Lighthouse is open only in the Evening from 4pm to 5pm.